I've personally been at this now for 43 years – that’s day in and day out, on the bench as an electronics technician. Over that time I've honed my skills and techniques. I’m one of the best that you’ll ever find. Honkin my own horn? You betcha! Most technicians of my caliber have either long since retired, or sadly passed away. I got my start when I was still in high school, back in 1982. God willing, I’ve still plenty of good years left in me.
Back in the mid 80’s I use to work at the Panasonic factory in Secaucus, NJ – in their Industrial Service Division (which was called at the time, MESCO), where I repaired one tube and three tube color video cameras, ½” VCR’s (VHS) and ¾” VCR and VTR’s. Their AG-6200 and the AG-6300, along with their flagship, the AG-6800 was par for the course. They also had editors that I also worked on, the NV-8500 was their flagship editor at that time. The NV-8950 was an Industrial VHS VCR that had trick heads which used crystals and high voltage, which allowed you to search without seeing lines in the picture – which was a first for back then. All of these decks were work horses, built extremely well and designed to last. Same holds true for the AG-1980 and the AG-5710. Both machines are nearly identical, the exception being that the AG-5710 does not have a TV tuner.
I’ve been repairing the AG-1980 since shortly after its inception. I personally know the AG-1980 & AG-5710 better than anyone else -like the back of my hand, tied behind my back! Lets get this one thing straight: I am not cheap, not by a long shot. Having said that, I also stand behind my work for an incredible TWO YEARS! No one does that, period. My motto is simple and to the point:
‘Fix It and Fix It Right, and Make It Last’
The AG-1980, and it’s sister machine, the AG-5710 have many common problems. While we can simply repair these machines, we also offer the Bullet Proofing service, as ourtlined below::
Firstly, the mechanics are removed and then I strip the mechanics completely down and remove all the old dried out grease. That takes time, as the only thing left in place are the two guides and the audio/ctrl head. It’s pretty much bare metal. You have to do that to get all the old grease out. The black grease that’s used – referred to as Molytone, breaks down with age and looses it’s viscosity. You’ll find that ALL other shops simply apply another coat on top of what’s there. One place in particular uses the wrong viscosity grease and he plasters it all over the place, on top of what is there. Now, anyone who’s in the know – knows that you NEVER mix viscosities. After a while, the grease becomes even more stiff. Molytone’s main component is mineral oil. When the grease breaks down – typically around 10 years plus or minus, the mineral oil seeps out and the solid components of the greae are left behind. That, and dissimilar metals make the grease hard and can actually freeze a couple of the parts together so that they will no longer move, thus creating non-working machines. So, it's absolutely essential to remove ALL the old grease, then meticulously clean each and every part before applying the new grease. Two different greases are used in these machines. Molytone grease, which is the exact same grease as used at the factory, and the other grease is a rare and special proprietary grease. Both of these greaees were difficult and expensive to obtain. This second grease doesn’t break down, period – so it will last near indefinitely. It also does not migrate like ALL the others greases that one can obtain. Both grease were recently purchased with expiration years into the future. They will last and stand the test of time. The Molytone grease that the factory used is well over 20 years old now and has long since reached it's end of life. As the Molytone grease breaks down, It releases the main component, which is mineral oil. The solid's left behind can no longer do their job lubricating and the mineral oil migrates and gets all over everything.. All that grease and left over mineral oil needs to be completely removed and each and every part meticulously cleaned. This, before you can even think about applying new. You also can't use old stock, even if it's new, because it's long since passed it's expiration and guess what? Yep, it won't be long before it breaks down, causing excessive wear and tear inside your deck. To remove and replace this grease takes time - lots and lots of time. You have to remove the grease from each and every part, washer, screw, gear and shaft that there is.. There’s approx. 40 parts on the top side and around 30 or so parts from the bottom of the chassis, along with washers, springs and clips - everything, save the audio/ ctrl head and the two guide posts. The metal chassis along with each and every part, is thoroughly cleaned so that it is spotless. It’s a long, drawn out process that you cannot rush.
Then it comes time to re-assemble the mechanics. I have acquired many new parts, referred to as New Old Stock, that I use to rebuild each VCR. I have hundreds of these new parts, obtained at great effort and great expense. No one has these parts - they have long since been depleted. I have purchased nearly all that remains, save very few.. These NOS parts are not used, nor are they ‘pulls’ from other machines. They are NEW. Of course, when Bullet Proofing these machines, not all the parts are replaced – only key parts that need replacing, depending on the wear of the machine that’s being serviced and my considered Professional opinion. There is no limit to what I will do to make your unit LAST.. It took a lot of time to source these NOS parts and I now have a very large stockpile – for use when Bullet Proofing these machines. We’re talking 29 different parts that are all now stocked for these decks.
The only thing that this bullet proofing service does not cover, are the video heads. All the other parts are included in our Two Year Warranty. Should your unit need new heads - we'll need to source another deck, that's also in gently used condition. These are, at the time of writing, typically between $250 - $400, and can change quickly. As time goes by, this price will only increase.
Next, the electronics: The motherboard, along with ALL the attached boards, are completely removed, along with the Power Supply. All wires are also removed. Then, all the peripheral circuit boards are all removed from the main board. Then, each and EVERY electrolytic capacitor is replaced – on EVERY circuit board, including the tuner (in the case of the AG-1980, as the AG-5710 does not have a tuner). The TBC, the Audio 2 PC board, along with the Tuner, have surface mounted electrlytic capacitors (SMD's)
that are ALL replaced. Add up all the capacitors and you come up with about 245 capacitors that are ALL replaced inside the AG-1980. Earlier models of the AG-1980, along with AG-5710 have just a few less capacitors. We do not use cheap Chinese capacitors, like all the rest. No, we only use long life, high quality capacitors that are made in Japan. That way, she’ll last for another couple of decades and beyond. There are lots of Tom, Dick, and Harry’s out there, along with other shady shops, that do not replace ALL the capacitors – you’re lucky if they even replace 10 of them. - I kid you not! Even if there is one or two shops out there that can or do replace them all (haven’t seen one yet) – they use the cheapest, dirtiest caps that money can buy - from China, of course! After all, money is all they are concerned about, sad to say. That is not the case here at AVRepair. My motto is and has always been:
Do it and do it right!
Make the Clients Happy and They’ll Spread the Word
After all the capacitors are replaced on EVERY circuit board AND the Power Supply, each circuit board is gone over by hand and with a high power magnifier. Any cold solder connections are re flowed with fresh solder. This too, is a common problem. Once the completed boards are re-installed inside the machine, the freshly rebuilt mechanics are also re-installed. The wires are dressed – just like the factory. Finally come the alignments. The alignments - both mechanical and electrical - are all checked and adjusted as necessary. Once complete, she’ll run better, quieter and will stand the test of time. No one tears down the mechanics and removes ALL the grease. Not one. And no one will stand behind their work for Two Years – Let alone One Year, or even 6 Months!
Something else that sets us apart is that you ARE allowed to remove the top cover… Most places put a sticker on the outside (and everywhere else, for that matter) that warns the user that the warranty is voided if you remove the cover! Now that is silly. When you get back a deck that has been Bullet Proofed by yours truly – I encourage you take the top off and inspect my work. You will then see a night and day comparison to my work – and anyone else’s – period. My return rate for these units, once Bullet Proofed, is ZERO. Try to find that anywhere else!
Are any and all problems with my AG-1980 or AG-5710 covered under your Bullet Proofing service? Absolutely! No matter the problem, or how many problems your deck has, once we're finished with our Bullet Proofing service, your machine will perform flawlessly for years to come - it's what we do!
I do not do piece work, nor do I have any quota's, nor am I paid by the hour. There is only ONE electronic technician here and that is ME. That means two things: You get me, each and every time. It also means that I'm slow. But, this allows me to take my time and do things right - like you're supposed to do.
Did you know? Most shops have MAYBE one half way descent tech - but you never get him! You always get some high school flunky who will trash your machine. Scare tactic? Not in the least. This is more true statement than you may even realize...
Now for the bad news: To 'bullet proof' an AG-1980, or the AG-5710, the total cost comes in at $1950.00, plus shipping of $30, totaling $1980.00. That is expensive for sure, but – if you want it done right – that’s what it will cost you. I’ve repaired hundreds of these very decks for many Universities across the nation including the University of Florida (back in the day when they used them), along with many Law Enforcement facilities, and current Tape Duplication Houses across the Nation that also do Tape Transfers, and countless Professionals that also like to use these decks.
Now, if you want to buy a ‘Bullet Proofed’ unit directly from me, the cost is $3900, which includes our TWO YEAR Warranty. These machines have low hours to begin with. For all intents and purposes, whether you buy one from me, or have one repaired, these machines are new – and perform better than new – guaranteed.
Typical time frame for Bullet Proofing these machines is Three Months, start to finish, plus or minus. If this is the kind of service you're looking for, and you don’t mind waiting – well, you've found the right place. Now, if you're looking for quick, or cheap - well, good luck with that!
Shipping
As for choice of shipping carrier, it’s always best to use UPS. The mail (USPS) is getting more and more expensive, not to mention THE slowest service these days. If you do use USPS, do not fall for their ‘extras’ – tracking, special handling, etc. If you wish to purchase insurance, it would be best to use UPS, as regular UPS Ground comes with $100 of insurance, at no extra cost.
I recommend ShipStation. You'lll have to sign up, but they do not require a credit/ debit card. It's free for 30 days, so just cancel after you ship your package – or if you ship a bit each month, keep it for $10 a month. Heck, you'll save that amount each time you ship! - I kid you not. Once you create and then print the shipping label, just tape it to the outside of the box. You can then drop the box off at any Pack-n-Ship place or any CVS or even UPS Drop Off locations. They cannot charge you extra just because you used your own pre-paid label. Ask for the manager or blow them a raspberry and go somewhere's else.
I don't make anything from this referral - I'm just trying save you some hard earned cash.
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MAKING REPAIRS LAST IS WHAT WE DO!
